Quote Originally Posted by Roger Cole View Post
"Warm" has nothing to do with it in most normal developers, it's time+temperature. Adjust the time to suit the temperature and results will be so similar as to be indistinguishable. I routinely develop all my black and white at 24C/75F because I use a Jobo CPE2 that will heat, but not cool. In the hottest months of summer sometimes I'm running at 76-77F because of the ambient temperature. I adjust times a bit to suit. Results are fine, no particular grain - and ALL my Delta 3200 is run like this too (albeit in T-Max developer, but it's grainier than D76.)

What you have here is a very long development time for the temperature. Ilford specs give only 13.5 minutes at 24C for D76 at EI 12500.

Not that you aren't getting the grainy results the OP is asking for. But you could just as well get it at 20C with a suitably longer time. Ilford publishes a temperature conversion chart that gives equivalent times at different temperatures (this is what I use when I'm a degree or two too hot in the summer - it's close enough for such small differences.) It only goes to 17:15 at 24C, but the equivalent time at 20C is given as 25:00 minutes. Some extrapolation shows the equivalent to 24C/18 minutes would be about 26:30.

Some older films could reticulate if temperature varied too much and developer was warm and then you went into cool stop or the like, but that's a different thing and very unlikely with modern films.
To be fair, the Ilford times for D3200 have long been regarded as off base, giving thinner than desirable negs, although I do generally develop my film for slightly longer than recommended anyway. I target my negatives for a grade 4 or 5 print, generally, so it doesn't bother me.

I always make sure to warm up the stop and fix a bit if I do this, too, to avoid reticulation. If I do in fact want to reticulate, I keep a container of water in the fridge, then moved to the freezer for an hour or so before developing. I then heat some water up in the microwave or on the stove, and I start developing. Perhaps halfway through development, I'll empty the tank into a beaker, and shock the film with the freezing water, followed by the almost boiling water, and then resume developing. You can do this as many times as you like, and with the fixer and stop, too.