Quote Originally Posted by Ken Nadvornick View Post

I'm in the process right now of making enlargements from overexposed and overdeveloped 50+ year old 35mm negatives. This level of intensity would be a huge help. I'm struggling somewhat with lengthy exposure times for full-frame magnifications on 8x10. These negatives are opaque. I've had to go back to a high-intensity single-tube V54 head and use Ilford under-the-lens filtration for the worst offenders.

Do you have any data regarding effective intensity levels for the low contrast end? Grades 0 and 1? As we've already discussed, there seems to be about a 10x natural exposure time spread between the highest and lowest contrast levels. And my overdeveloped negatives are also very high in contrast, thus requiring those lower filtration levels.

Also as we've discussed, my preference would be for a unit that can be integrated directly into my existing enlarging set-up and workflow. I would prefer to continue using the Zone VI Timer that I've already invested in and grown accustomed to over the years.

The thing about f/stop printers is that I might imagine the bulk of those interested in that approach have probably also already invested in (rather expensive) timing units, and evolved their own workflows around those. My guess is that they may not want to give those up either.
Thank you for your comments and insights.

The Model 3 is pretty well speed matched across all grades so you can expect grade 0 on my device to be about double the brightness of a 150W bulb at grade 0.

I see your point about being able to integrate a new device into an existing workflow. I certainly could build a hardware controller and did originally intend to do so but I quickly realized that whatever I built would be limited in its capabilities by its limited user interface. The beauty of a software interface is that you get to leverage off the incredible work Apple has done with hardware while freeing yourself to create a controller with nearly unlimited capabilities. Than being said, I did make a prototype box that uses the an LCD display, some knobs and buttons and works well but it would be very expensive to make in the small quantities one could expect to sell and would simply not be viable. However, there is a fellow in England who is building a hardware interface for his own LED device and we have collaborated so that his controller will work with my light box. That may be an option for some people who have existing timers they don't want to part with.