Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
Oh! I had no idea...

Gotcha, well, thanks for the lesson.


The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

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Processing Type R was a PITA. I kept the chemicals in aluminum soda cans for temperature transmission and tempered them in a tub of water. Only the first developer was really critical but the color/reversal bath was "semi-critical." I'd start running hot or cold water over the can during the previous step to get it just right by the time I poured it in. Ilfochrome ran at 75F and was just as easy as black and white otherwise. Three steps - instead of develop, stop and fix it was develop, bleach and fix. The bleach and fix just went to completion so only the developer was really sensitive to time and temperature and you could run at cooler temperatures by extending the time a bit.

One thing that is seldom mentioned was that I found color balancing easier with reversal printing. In the first place, the process seemed to have more latitude or at least was less responsive. Ilford's printing filters for Ilfochrome only went down to 5 units, and that was fine for Type R as well. For color neg you want at least 2.5 steps. (Or .025 - different makers labeled them differently but they were clearly the same thing.) Plus, with reversal prints you had a reference starting point, which could be invaluable. Color neg allowed wider swings though, better correction of incandescent or fluorescent etc.