I agree jnanian, at one point it gets silly. You do not need so many options when common (use of vision) sense could do as well. I don't want to detract at all from your valid point that you don't need to use meters... I just like them and will address the idea of using them.

I find using an external meter creates better pictures from any camera. I often leave the battery out of the (e.g., OM-1) camera to keep me from being distracted by a match-needle that is difficult to interpret. I'd rather use a Master II with Zone System sticker, hold my palm in the light and set the pointer at Zone VI... than use a center-weighted measurement.

An evaluative metering system or an automatic camera, even a high-end top-of-the-line one, takes each scene individually. I don't know any that regard the "set" of photographs that you are taking at the same time. Two shots adjacent with slightly different compositions --- SHOULD --- have exactly the same exposure to look good presented next to each other.

You can use Manual.

Make up your mind what that scene exposure should be. Once you make the decision, use the same setting or two (e.g., one for shade - one for sun) for all the shots in the general vicinity.

In reality it can be very fast and simple, I often stick my arm out the door of the car... Hold the incident dome in the direction for a reading and take one reading and use it for the whole shoot. Other times I will use spot, read shadow and take that reading (placed on Zone II). So the choice of Spot and Incident is very practical and gives you two fast options.