Quote Originally Posted by ted_smith View Post
Vaughn...that rocks! Thanks a lot. That is what I was after pretty much, when I asked the question here. It certainly helps explain a lot of my mis-understandings!

I do have a question about it. Where it says, for example, meter reading of 20 minutes = 4 hours....I don't get that. If the meter says 20 minutes for a "correct exposure", 4 hours is making it considerably "over exposed". Is that the point, though? Is that how his pictures look the way they do and so bright despite apparant darkness? In other words, a piece of technology might report 20 minutes as a suitable exposure time, but he's taking it to 4 hours? Or have I mis-understood that?

As for the roll of 120 I shot at 10\15 secs in almot utter darkness...by the sounds of it, I think I may as well just throw that out rather than paying to have it dev'd!
2 things, one is with this stuff it's better to learn to develop it yourself. Not have a lab do it, because there are finite details about WHICH developer works best with which film and the type of exposure you're doing you will want to have more control over the process in general. It's easy for $100 to get a full Paterson setup that can be put in a box when not in use and won't take up much space and you can do this at home.

Second is, the reason for the 20 minutes = 4 hours is about reciprocity failure, so most films hit failure at 30 seconds, Fuji Neopan Acros 100 has a reported 2 minute failure threshold. So basically after 2 minutes (or 30 seconds for most other films) the normal exposure times stop being accurate and have to be extended exponentially. The film basically stops reacting to the light and needs to be exposed for a much longer time. This also means steadier tripod and camera that can be out on time function (bulb would be ok but you would be standing there holding the cable for an hour...). Does this make sense?


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