Quote Originally Posted by Pandysloo View Post
Thanks for your advice, everyone. I realize it is something that will take years of careful attention and patience, and while my post came off a bit eager, I was simply trying to figure out the right direction to go in order to some day arrive there. The lack of shortcuts is one thing I love about film so much.

Everyone has been telling me to overexpose, but from what I can tell it looks washed out. For instance, in this photo I used an iPhone light meter app (I realize it's crude, but it's all I have at the moment) and set the EV compensation to 2 stops under. I then metered off the sky, which should have underexposed the image even more, if I'm not mistaken. Upon scanning it (unaltered), the image was still too bright for my tastes, and I had to drop the brightness maybe 1 stop-worth to get it looking like this: http://geometryofthought.tumblr.com/image/34321301137

My understanding up until this point was to underexpose the negative to get dramatic contrast, then print without altering it. It seems my concept of the photographic process was wrong. So the negative is for capturing the most tonal information, with adjustments to be made in the darkroom, correct? Rather than doing everything "in camera," so to speak...

The photographer is Hengki Koentjoro, who shoots with a Hasselblad. I have not tried to ask him; it's always the simplest and most direct solutions we seem to overlook, eh?
A few things, one is you should meter for the subject, this being the mountain, secondly get a real light meter that has a spot meter for anything that's like a mountain as the iPhone won't capture this properly. Third is you probably chose the wrong time of day, even with color you should have chosen dawn before the sun came up and exposed for several minutes, fourth is that I don't think you had a haze filter on, and depending on the amount of moisture in the air you probably aren't seeing "over exposure" you're seeing water vapor in the air, a really good haze filter will HELP with this, not eliminate it, sometimes it's the right time of DAR or the right day that is clear and crisp and dry. Fifth is what the above poster said, before doing color start with B&W and spend a few YEARS learning and understanding light and your use if color filters etc. sixth is lean your color film you use, what film is this? For more "dramatic" looks, it's best to use the hardest film to expose of the lot which is transparency film, however that last but is personal preference, not to be held to by everyone.

Hope that helped somewhat.


Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk