Part of the reason that I have basically "fallen back to" using manufacturer's recommendations as a baseline (box speed and normal dilutions, agitation, temperature, and times) is that I know they work and work really well. Similarly classic "point the dome at the camera" incident metering is so reliable that there is essentially no question about whether placement is workable or not.
Those two choices with a reasonable bit of practice to learn and to become even marginally skilled in the mechanics of these tasks ensures "pretty darn good" results that will fall well within a range of where a high quality print can be made from the resulting negative.
Which brings me to your point.
By good results I mean that I can say with confidence that, given my baseline, the resulting films will show faithfully my artistic choices and how well my tools are working. If there is a problem I know where to look, it is either my choices, my inattention, or my tools.
A solid tested baseline gives each of us the ability to trouble shoot easily and share that info with others.
It is important, if anyone is going to use my info as a baseline, to know how it works.
The reason box speed and classic incident metering works just fine for most people, including me, is that it pegs what is typically most important in a shot, like Grand ma and the new baby. The latitude inherent in negative films normally takes care of the edges nicely with room to spare. This systemically works so well that IMO the grand majority of all photographers could do this and never be disappointed with their negatives.
There are ways to tweak this though for the people who want that little bit extra to reach the next level of shadow detail in print or whatever is most important.
One of the reasons shooting at 1/2 box speed is basically irrelevant to me personally is my metering methods. When shadow detail is really important in the shot I simply orient the head of the incident meter to measure, for example, open shade, rather than pointing the meter head at the camera which might make it cross lit. A person using classic "point at the camera orientation" would need to use 1/2 or maybe even 1/4 box speed to get the same reading/exposure placement I get.
The inverse applies also. Where others may shoot at double or quadruple box speed in low light, I may simply orient the meter's head to peg exposure from the light source. Our exposure placement may actually end up the same but the logic used to get there is very different.
Without knowing the mechanics of the system I employ knowing my EI is irrelevant.
Not knowing how your shutter behaves in the cold provides the same problem.