Quote Originally Posted by markbarendt View Post
You just provided a great piece of info to the discussion, your knowledge is important here. It is important to consider that stuff.


Part of the reason that I have basically "fallen back to" using manufacturer's recommendations as a baseline (box speed and normal dilutions, agitation, temperature, and times) is that I know they work and work really well. Similarly classic "point the dome at the camera" incident metering is so reliable that there is essentially no question about whether placement is workable or not.
I'm curious about this Mark. I've been using T-Max films and following factory recommendations and using an incident meter. I'm not good at evaluating negatives but printing with a #2 filter results in a super contrasty print. I don't think I've ever had an easy to print negative using T-Max, unless it looked very underexposed. So at least with T-Max, what you're recommending isn't working for me. Tri-X OTOH, I've not had as much problems with. Have you shot T-Max without any adjusting from factory recommendations?

One of the reasons shooting at 1/2 box speed is basically irrelevant to me personally is my metering methods. When shadow detail is really important in the shot I simply orient the head of the incident meter to measure, for example, open shade, rather than pointing the meter head at the camera which might make it cross lit. A person using classic "point at the camera orientation" would need to use 1/2 or maybe even 1/4 box speed to get the same reading/exposure placement I get.
I'm interested in learning more about incident metering. My interest lies in close up photography, verging on macro at times. Often the shadows on the subject are so small there's no way I can use a spot meter effectively, but the light conditions can very a lot. The basic point at the camera, from the subject I get. But I'm not seeing a lot about incident meter technique. Can you recommend any books on the subject? Have you written any articles on the subject?