Micheal, I am happy with the shadow detail, the information is there, as well as the highlights, usually. I suspect I'm dealing with overdevelopment. Some of the scenes I've shot have been very contrasty but many have not been. Even if I shoot in shade, when I go to print that negative, the blacks build up fast, but the highlights are blown and that's with a #2 filter. With T-Max 100 and 400, I spend a lot of time with the #00 filter, trying to burn in the highlights. My last set of negs were a a nightmare. Even with a strait #00 filter, the darks would build up in seconds, before the highlights, and that was stopped down to f/22 and f/32 on the enlarger.
Originally Posted by Michael R 1974
My film development is very consistent. These are the steps:
1. Develop, continuous agitation first 30 seconds, 3 inversions in 5 seconds, every 30 seconds thereafter. Always at published times.
2. Stop bath, continuous agitation, 30 seconds.
3. Fixer, 8 minutes, same agitation scheme as step 1.
4. Fill tank with water, agitate continuously for 30 seconds, repeat.
5. Perma wash for 2 minutes, same agitation scheme as step 1.
7. Final water wash. Fill and dump tank 10 times, taking 1 minute to fill tank.
8. Photo-flo and hang.
I fill two pans with 20c water and place all chemicals used in the bath. All chemicals are brought to 20c, just before I start. Water rinses are also temperature controlled to 20c.
I've got a glass calibration thermometer that I use to make sure my dial thermometer is accurate.
Chemicals in the darkroom start at 20c and may drift to 21c.
My light meter is a Sekonic L-508, calibrated by Quality Light Metric. I almost always use incident metering, pointed away from the subject, to the camera.
Last edited by kbrede; 01-20-2013 at 10:24 PM. Click to view previous post history.