One stop bath is sufficient, and for film may even be replaced by two or three rinses in water. Its purpose is to stop development and to preserve acidity in the fixer (developers are all alkaline). A good rinse in water stops development, gets rid of 99.9% of the alkali, and the effect on the fixer is negligible. I don't use stop bath for film any longer, and suffer no ill effects in the results. If you make the rinse quick, then the fixer effectively acts as final developer arrestor (due to the acidity).

Agree about wooden clips - to be avoided. Clothes pegs in plastic should be okay. I prefer my darkroom stainless steel clips, as they do not cause a dimple in the film, and have a really good grip.

Don't hang the film to dry in an open room. A dust free cupboard is maybe better. I hang films in my darkroom and close the door for an hour or two. Dust that settles on the emulsion when still wet will embed, and be impossible to remove later.

You don't mention storage of the film after it has dried. May I suggest Printfile negative sleeves? The 6 frames x 7 strips ones are what I use for 35 mm. For 120 I use the 3 frames x 4 strips (for 6x7). The same ones work for 645 as 4 frames x 4 strips. Don't use the 4 frame width type sleeves unless you can help it, or your scanner only accommodates 4 frames of 35 mm. The reason is that it is easier to browse your negative sleeves if they are A4-sized (flat) and stored in a ring-binder as a single page.