Although fixing of tabular grain films may take slightly longer, this has nothing to do with clearing of the dyes. The only way to effectively clear the dyes is to wash the film thoroughly in water before or after fixing. There are two approaches. One is to presoak the film in water for 5 min. That is quite effective in removing the larger part of the dye. The other is to clear it post-development and fixing. If you are using one-shot developer, then no problem. But if you re-use developer, especially with replenishment, your developing solution is going to accumulate more and more dye. In that case a pre-soak is recommended. I also dislike dye carry-over into the stop bath, as it masks the indicator and since it is re-used, will also accumulate. My own process is to develop with single-shot, then to do a double rinse after development, and then to fix after that. I do not get carry-over of dye into the fixer. Most of the dye gets thrown out with the developer, and a little bit clears during rinsing. If any remains, it gets cleared in final washing. Dye is not an issue for darkroom printing, but it is very annoying for scanning.
Originally Posted by amac212
The Film Developing Cookbook further clarifies the above. It recommends three 5 min soaks in water to remove the dye, if I recall correctly.
Last edited by dorff; 01-25-2013 at 07:32 AM. Click to view previous post history.