Lots of options depending on what kind of print you want. They can of course be combined.
-Reduce contrast in the negatives to better match the paper
-Reduce paper grade/contrast to better match the negatives
-More burning and dodging (sometimes you need to do a lot of this, and that's ok)
-Burning and dodging with multiple filter grades
-Various types of masking (more complicated)
Most people prefer to start by controlling the negative first, though this does not necessarily mean it has to be compressed enough to "match" the paper.
I would not suggest pre-flashing the paper. It is sometimes helpful but best done locally, rather than just flashing the entire sheet of paper. It flattens local contrast.
Also note the tonal range of the emulsion on the paper is not actually short. The reason it appears much shorter than the negative range is because you are viewing the print by reflected light, rather than transmitted light. You can demonstrate this to yourself by viewing a wet print with bright light behind it. You'll be able to see shadow and highlight detail that is not normally visible. Not that this helps when making prints. It's just interesting to know.