I might add I was printing on Galerie G3 with PQ 1:10 developer. You can adjust contrast by diluting Rodinal and agitation. Adding variables makes it more difficult to nail the negative contrast. In general, Rodinal will change the tonal balance vs film developed in D-76. Expect shadows and the zone IV to V mid tones to be darker. On the other hand highlights like bright skies will easily print. Under a grain focuser, Rodinal negatives have sharp grain on MF. But 120 film developed in XTOL 1:2 is also sharp without coarseness. XTOL 120 negs printed at a factor of 5x are sharp and print with clarity.
The image chriscrawford posted has a typical Rodinal look, strong contrast. Note, Rodinal is agitation sensitive. Ilford data guide says to use 16m with Rodinal 1:50. I think this is too strong a ratio.
Last year I was experimenting and had these time values with FP-4 and a 1:75 ratio. I think the negatives needed to be developed to about 2/3 grade harder to best print on a condenser.
I'm not a Rodinal expert, just a casual user. There was a thread last year named; Making The Most of Rodinal. Link takes time to load.I'm using the guidelines in the following article and adjusting from recommended starting points.
I only use roll film with Rodinal.
My best negatives which still need tweaks have been with FP4, EI 64, Rodinal 1:75, 11 min, 20c, light conditions winter Oklahoma sun, (4) to (5) inversions the first 20 seconds. (4) gentle inversions each 60s. My developing tank is steel with a (4) or (5) 120 capacity. I load (1) 120 reel and use a 35mm reel for as a spacer. One inversion provides complete mixing of the solution. If I had a smaller tank my agitation would be more frequent to achieve the same results.
My Rodinal is at least 4/5 years old and recently turned a darker honey from light honey tint.