the data sheet says it is safe with a dark red light,
so you can process your film in your developer and turn the safelight on ... and develop by inspection.
since this film is important for your project, i would probably shoot a roll or few sheets as guinea pigs
and process them first as test sheets to figure out the best times and then process your project film.
i wish i could help you with your filter recommendation !
i never followed through with any of the suggestions given in this thread ...
but i think a "bluish" filter might do the trick ...
i get my ortho results mostly by shooting paper negatives
i haven't used ilford direct positive paper, maybe it would work for you ?
it is pretty contrast-y so you might have to flash it, and / or process it in a dilute
and spent / used / less active developer ... maybe it will do what you need ?
... what i do is abuse the film i already have ..
i over expose it and then over develop it so it is pretty much BULLETPROOF
and then ... i make contact prints on regular old photo paper using a 300 watt light buib.
i process both my film AND prints in the same coffee based developer. i use robusta sumatra beans
and add a wee bit of ansco 130 print developer in it ... but the cheapest of instant coffees will work and whatever print developer
you have on hand that might be gasping for life ... just make it strong, and add a bit extra soda and enough vit c to make it foam ...
(add the print developer last )
my methods aren't for everyone ... maybe a blue filter, paper negatives or ilford direct positive paper works better?
not sure, but what i do seems to do the trick for me right now ...
good luck with your project !