Quote Originally Posted by BMbikerider View Post
Was it when he changed the shutter speeds before cocking the shutter, he actually put it on the wrong speed? If I recall correctly the shutter speed dial rotates when the shutter is fired and finishes up at a different place on the dial, so when you wind on the film it brings the dial into the correct position to change the shutter speed against the engraved marks?
Right. That's what happens—if you cock it, set it to 1/60, fire it... it spins and ends up misaligned until you cock it again. The guy at the camera shop sometimes changed the speeds before cocking the shutter again.

Quote Originally Posted by BMbikerider View Post
It is unlikely that any damage has been caused but this would give the incorrect reading he (the 'repairer') found when he tested the shutter. I have had a number of cameras made in Russia or the Ukraine and couple of early Leica's where I have forgetfully changed the shutter speed before winding on. There has never been a problem afterwards so I think you may have been worrying unnecessarily.

It may be possible that the actual dial is out of sync too. On the ones I had there is or was a tiny screw that held the shutter speed dial in the right place and this had slackened off and slipped. It was just a matter of unscrewing it a little more and re-positioning the dial to the right place and firmly tightening the screw
Right, that would explain why he thinks the shutter speeds are off by almost a whole stop. He changed the shutter, and the mechanical shutter timings are at least 15%, right? I mean…I don't know if it's just an explanation at this point I watched him do this.

Quote Originally Posted by Kiev88user View Post
Hi there.
Firstly it is unlikely that any damage has been done unless the guy forced the knob past the stop - the reason KMZ state not to change the speeds with the shutter unwound is most critical to the Zorki 4K, which has the additional slow speeds escapement, and damage almost certainly will be done if speeds are changed before winding the Zorki 4/4K shutter.

Best way to check the shutter initially is:
1) WIND THE SHUTTER - then set to 'B' with the back removed. Fire the shutter, hold down the release button. The opening curtain should snap smartly open. Now release the button and the closing curtain should close quickly but not quite so snappily as the opening one. The secret of the Barnack shutter is that the closing curtain moves slightly more slowly so as to avoid it catching up with the opening one and causing fade. If the shutter is snappy at the 'B' setting then other speeds should be reasonable. If sluggish then a lube/adjust is needed.
2) Now set to the 1/500 speed, back off and lens off, and look through the lens throat. Aim the camera at a grey sky or well lit light coloured wall and fire a few times. You should see an evenly lit oblong. If you do then things are looking good.
3) For an approximate way of testing shutter speed accuracy, check Rick Oleson's page http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-135.html +/- 20% of the set speed is allowable, that is only 1/5th stop.
I'm glad I chose the Mir, then. Yuri offered me a Zorki 4 in the case this Mir wasn't any good, but I refused it—mostly because I read the Mir is somehow more reliable than it's bigger sibling. I guess now I know why. (;

Okay I tried (1)… and I see exactly what you're saying. On bulb, the first curtain snaps open, and when I release the shutter, the second curtain snaps shut a little slower than the first. Cool!

I'll check (2) in the morning, and I'll maybe run Rick Oleson's tests (3) tomorrow too. (;

I also just ran a roll of film through the thing, and there were no appreciable problems beside setting my meter wrong, forgetting to change exposure settings, bumping the aperture ring, etc. Everything looks well-exposed. (;

Thanks guys. (: