I've been returning to the darkroom after 10+ years away, and processing 120 for the first time ever.

In the days of film the B&W printing was more of a "utility" thing for me, my work was all commercial stuff, E6 for the most part. Now I'm shooting a lot of test charts, trying to settle on film, developer, time, & ISO for a project where I want some grain. 35 has been fine, but the 120's been a little challenging.

Here's a scan from a 1-hour stand (couple inversions at 30:00), a process many people have posted as their go-to. I got some odd streaking in areas of high contrast:

streaks.jpg

(I've enhanced that a bit). I understand this to be (insert technical word for "you didn't agitate it enough"). That's fine, the negs from stand have looked a little flat and the blacks were pretty weak, at all the reasonable brackets. Moved on to standard processing times, agitation and temps.

I'm seeing this though, on the negs and the prints (so it's not an enlarger issue). It looks like it could be camera shake, since it's real specific... these were shot at 1/30th with an old RB proS.

type.jpg

If you look at the "D" and the "P", the open spaces in the letters are open in the ghost image - seems like streaking from processing would be less distinct? Or in this image, the shape of the white box is very distinct, as are the straight lines on top:

ghosts.jpg

Could that be processing or something mechanical? I'm thinking of running a pack of polaroid through at various shutter speeds - may be too small to see in that case though, but that would be pretty quick and FP3000 does hold some good detail.

Other than that, I've found a speed & processing setup that's giving me a wide gamut, deep blacks and a good tonal range - on the negative. I'm using a digital color test strip (all I have right now - it has 11 chips from black to white).

On the negs, every square has a distinct tone, from solid black to pure white - on paper (grade 2) the last two whites are coming out the same (that is, the 2 brightest tones are both printing as white - does paper simply have less tonal range than film? At this point I'm trying for a full tonal range on test cards with a grade #2 filter.

Paper: Ilford MGIV RC (Because it's cheap - I seem to be blowing through a lot of paper & film...)
Film: HP5+
Dev: Rodinal

Thanks guys, for any thoughts.