Pinch of sulphite - just a very tiny amount, take it from the 9.6g/L amount that's been measured out. I just formed this habbit when mixing developers, probably from doing it with Metol.

the CD-2 is mixed first, then the rest of the Sulphite. The Sulphite removes the HCl molecule off CD-2 iirc, and the H2SO4 off CD-4 and CD-3 (if you don't include a base initially it wont develop).

The bisulphite drops the pH down a bit, you can go lower than I did, but 7.1 is low enough for most purposes.

Some development has to occur in Bath A, or it is useless.

I've tried it with CD-3 before using ECN-2 film, I omitted the Sulphite as I wanted maximum saturation/dye formation etc in Bath A. Not even 4x the equivalent amount here of colour developer agent worked. I got very thin images from +5 stops overexposed, and that was it, and they were terrible colour iirc.

Development occurs in Bath A. Not much, but a reasonable amount. You can therefore alter affects and density with variations in time in Bath A.

Bath B continues development, but halts to a stop when it runs out of developer.

The last one I tried with CD-2 as at 7g/L which worked very well a well with limited testing on obscure films.

Print Film Test #3 by athiril, on Flickr

I was interested in it at the time to try and get good in camera pictorial results out of Vision Print Film (I've since had some luck with it using diluted E-6 first dev at 30c iirc and processing the rest as E-6), and put some 50D in as a control.

The recipe differs to the one I used here for the Agfa film in amounts and ingredients.

I'm currently interested in trying to figure out a good solvent style developer for C-41, ever since had some Agfa 400 go through E-6 by accident - messed up colours of course, but grain and detail were excellent.

Quote Originally Posted by chuck94022 View Post
Oh one more question. Was the second bath a "to completion" time, or was 6 minutes critical?

My guess is that it's to completion by 6 minutes, as there isn't much developer sitting around anyway.

Also one key component to 'acceptable' results is to use a good colour balance - don't use the same balance/settings you do for printing or scanning normal C-41 - that will just not work out well, as it's obviously different.

If you're printing, shooting a greyscale on the roll and using that frame that to dial in your balance will help.