Quote Originally Posted by keyofnight View Post
Thanks! ;D



Just for the record, I use a Hasselblad Flextight X1 and it's wonky Flexcolor software. I don't make adjustments to scans while I'm scanning beside the automatic inversion it does (I should turn that off too, I think, but I imagine it saves me a ton of time). I do all of my adjustments in Aperture 3. With that said… let me think about what might've gone wrong. OH! If my settings reset to 300dpi, they certainly reset the bit depth to 8-bit too. Cool! When I do a real scan on the whole roll—at 16-bit—I probably won't have that problem, right?

I'll post again with more pictures.
(Apologies in advance to the APUG community for the following...)

One thing to note: Aperture 3 is one of the worst tools you can be using to do these adjustments, because it does not have a simple Invert control. Instead, you have to invert using the Levels tool, when ends up reversing every other control you will be using. It absolutely sucks. Photoshop is really the best tool I've found when trying to work with adjusting color negatives, then once you've got the inversion done, you can use Aperture for the rest of your work. (I know, Photoshop is an expensive tool... maybe you can get away with using GIMP, but it has been a while since I've looked at it.) On the Mac, you might be tempted to try Pixelmator, since it is much cheaper than Photoshop and seems to be powerful. Don't. It doesn't have individual channel levels, and it only does 8 bits per channel. Worthless for this.