Quote Originally Posted by chuck94022 View Post
One thing to note: Aperture 3 is one of the worst tools you can be using to do these adjustments, because it does not have a simple Invert control. Instead, you have to invert using the Levels tool, when ends up reversing every other control you will be using. It absolutely sucks. Photoshop is really the best tool I've found when trying to work with adjusting color negatives, then once you've got the inversion done, you can use Aperture for the rest of your work. (I know, Photoshop is an expensive tool... maybe you can get away with using GIMP, but it has been a while since I've looked at it.) On the Mac, you might be tempted to try Pixelmator, since it is much cheaper than Photoshop and seems to be powerful. Don't. It doesn't have individual channel levels, and it only does 8 bits per channel. Worthless for this.
Yeah…it's a little dumb how there's no "invert" tool in Aperture 3, but oh well. Up until now, I gotten around Aperture 3's limitation here by using Hasselblad's Flexcolor scanning software. I don't adjust levels, add sharpening, add curves, remove casts; I turn all of the correction tools off. Then I set the film type to "color negative," and it does the inversion step. I'm not sure if it does anything else.

I hope it doesn't, because I'm pretty close to doing it the way you're suggesting to do it. I have a copy of Photoshop (and if I didn't, my university has site licenses that I'm probably entitled to as a staff member/student) and I'm not afraid to use it. After all, it shouldn't be too difficult to just make an action to invert and (maybe) remove the orange cast…then I can use that action to bulk edit. Eh. I might as well. Once thing are set up, it's just a few clicks worth of extra work. I'll try it out on my next few batches.