People usually disagree with me on this film but I will give you my two cents based on the testing I've done with it (35mm only).

1. You will have to do some careful testing to determine your working EI, how best to expose, etc. These films have ZERO latitude so care is necessary. Determining toe contrast is critical because you need to give these films the least amount of exposure possible to produce adequate shadow detail. Process very carefully.

2. In my tests I found my realistic exposure index to be closer to EI 3.

3. Adotech I was not a very good developer, in particular because uniformity was terrible. People argued with me on this, citing the claims Adotech I was "perfectly matched" to CMS20. Since Adox then reformulated it, my guess is it was not "perfectly" matched after all. I have not tried Adotech II. Hopefully it is better. I would try that first.

4. At the time, since I did not like Adotech I, I tried a few other developers and found the best results were with TD-3. Suggest you try Adotech II first. Others may have additional recommendations such as developers from Spur.

5. No matter what developer and process you use, these films do not have long exposure scales. Therefore they are best used under low to medium-low contrast conditions.

6. **I have never seen an example (scan, print etc) that looks like it was made with anything other than a high contrast copy/document film. Shadow detail is always poor, and highlights are blank. People will tell you the high resolution and ultra-fine grain of films like Tech Pan, CMS20 etc can make 35mm negatives print like medium or large format. But I have never seen any evidence of this. In practice these films promise much more than they deliver. If you value tonality, you are much better off with a general purpose fine grained film such as TMax 100. Even if you could take advantage of the high resolution capability of CMS20, there is a lot more to image quality than resolution.**

Hope this helps.