Hello Brett and welcome to APUG, don't let my ignorance represent the awesomeness that is APUG, my post was more about sharing my experience than anything else, I am in no way or form an expert
Thank you for the information about the focusing knob, I wasn't aware of that actually, it also looks kind of like a mystery to start messing with.
Though, on my camera, both lenses sit on the same physical lens-board, so any adjustment to the knob, would influence both lenses, not just the viewing one.
I have also actually removed the lens board as well, and there are no special attachments to the taking lens from the focusing system, it sits on that plate along with the viewing lens.
The plate itself is attached by 4 screws to the focus mechanism (with two pairs of shims below it actually), in addition to one more screw. That screw transfers the arm movements from winding the film, to the shutter winding mechanism around the taking lens.
- The distance scale around my focusing knob is long gone and no longer readable.
I do believe you'll need to adjust the stuff behind the focusing knob, if your infinity-focus is off, no doubt.
Mine was never off at inf. though (knew that from testing the camera before), so I adjusted the viewing lens to the taking lens, as you stated above.
From your post, my camera lenses were in state 2.
The reason why I used tape and a flash light, instead of a focusing screen, is that, as I say, my Hasselblad screen is too thick and cause front focus. The "film-plane" I am working with then, is moved back around 3-5 mm because of it.
By using the tape, and the flash-light, you basically just reverse the process, using your camera as a projector for the image of the tape.
The tape is thin as a film an is very easy to place on the film-plane and on the ground-glass.
Also, as my Automat is sh*t dark and fuzzy to look trough, it's almost impossible to focus critically, so by using a strong flashlight, I am able to go around that problem and just use more illumination.
Mine is sharp on all lenghts now (including infinity), but it is indeed as you say; It's a must that you know the state of the taking lens before you do anything.
(adjusting the taking lens to the viewing lens seems very illogical to me, but then again, I suppose you never know what people will do, me being a good example of just that :P )
For the record; my other Rolleiflex, a 2.8F was promptly sent out for a proper CLA the minute I laid my hands on it, and thats also my recommendation.
But converting a dud into a (ugly but sharp) gem by your own hands is really cool, so the automat-project was fun and educational. ^^
My mantra was (pardon my French): "F*ck it, if it breaks, it breaks, it's broken already" and then I took it apart