Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
PanF+ is WAY different than D100, it reacts to pushing very different, the tones an style of the effect on skin tones for me is very different and it's a traditional grain, it shouldn't be the same as a T grain, it more than just about the fine grain nature, it's a whole different animal.

If they had PanF+ in 4x5 I doubt I would even buy another film for daylight work.

If they could make a film with the characteristics of PanF+ and the reciprocity failure rates of Acros 100 I would never buy any other B&W film but Ilford.

But I digress. Point is I'm not the only one, and I doubt that delta rated at EI 50 dev in Rodinal pushed 2 stops would give anything like PanF+ because its only a 1 stop push in reality, which doesn't push the highlights enough, and I think the ability to not burn out the highlights in a push is another PanF+ behavior I like, at least on my system.


Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
Of course, Delta 100 is a completely different film to Pan F+ and will behave quite differently. But maybe the relevent question should be: if you have a particular 'look' or characteristic that you are after, is there a way, with the right techniques, that you couldn get it with Delta?

I mean, if you like the ultra grain free, razor sharp images in your Hasselblad then maybe only T max 100 or Across ot Delta 100 will do. But if you like the grainy, contasty, 1950s style of emulsion but all you have is T Max, surely you have a chance of getting a similar effect, because you can control contrast, colour sensitivity (with filters), the curve shape ( to some degree at least) and the grain. Boil T-max up in concentrated print developer and it looks very different! With sufficient experimentation I bet you could emulate something from years ago or something of lesser technological development.

In the case of 'pushed' pan F+ effect you were describing (something I've not done very much as I have always found it very contrasty and easy to make unprintable) - could Delta 100 with an ND filter over the lens and pushed in a compensating developer give a similar effect? I don't know, I've never tried it, but since sheet Delta 100 is available and sheet pan F+ isn't, I would humbly suggest it is worth trying.