I've shot more rolls of Ilford B&W films than I can count, mostly FP4 and PanF. (I was never a fan of HP5 - always preferred the tight and clear grain of Tri-X.) In my experience, PanF is THE most awesome black & white film I have ever used. Skin tones are gorgeous, landscapes are sharp, resolving power of this film is tremendous. I used it a lot in the studio (I haven't shot film for many years but I still have a freezer full of PanF.) T-Max 100 is a good smooth film, but for skin tones there's just something organic about a PanF image. And for detail, I have a 16x20 print of a close-up of a section of a barn I shot about 30 years ago and when I exhibited it in our local art show I had more than one person argue with me that the print couldn't have been made from a 35mm negative ... it's virtually grainless and the detail is amazing. FP4 is also a really good film but you have to play with developers to get the tonal range out of it. I shot thousands of feet of it in the 70s, 80s and 90s using ID-11 straight up – worked for me. I also had lots of luck back in the day using CroneC Additive (APUG post http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/8...c-formula.html) added to D-76 - guess it was a bit of phenidone added to isopropyl alcohol. It boosted Tri-X to a nominal ISO of 640 and decreased the apparent size of the grain.

With the large frame size of the RZ, a PanF neg in the studio would, in my opinion, be awesome. To be honest, I would shoot a couple of test rolls (or do some snip tests) and check out Ilford's ID-11 developer at 1:1 ... it really seems to work well with PanF processed in a Jobo CPP-2. I've used Rodinal extensively and had little luck with consistency, although it showed a lot of possibilities for versatility ... I guess I just didn't have the patience.

So my vote is PanF in ID-11 1:1. Keep in mind that PanF appears to be a bit overrated at ISO 50 when used with ID-11 1:1; you may want to play with ISO 32 and 25, or just bracket your RB lens up in thirds twice. I haven't had problems with blocking up with moderate overexposure but, as with most films, an accurate meter reading (once you determine optimum ISO for your conditions) will obviously be the goal.

Good luck!