Not a bad start. Youtube may have some good videos to provide learning by example.
It's not a big deal to get a little developer dribble on your hands. Either have some clean water handy to rinse your hands in regularly; I dip-rinse my hands after every agitation just so I don't transfer any developer to anything else in the darkroom. The other option is disposable gloves.
It's OK to err on the side of generous with fixing. If you fix for an hour you might go too far. Especially as the fixer diminishes in performance with re-use you can err on the side of caution. After 1 minute in the fixer, open you tank and inspect the film in normal light. It will be milky turning clear. That's how you see clearing time. With Kodak film, you don't have to spot on with temperature of non-developer chemicals and water. Some films you can damage the emulsion with temp changes. Part of Kodak's quality is resistance to this.
The pink look to your film means you didn't rinse it enough. I'd refix it for another 5 minutes and then wash it for 30 minutes. I doesn't have to be continuous wash, just change the water every 5 minutes or so.
You could make a black mask border and photograph the negatives with a macro lens up against a window to get a digital copy of them. You could also do cyanotypes if you want an analog process for printing that doesn't require a darkroom. If you don't like the blue, you can tone cyanotypes to another color.