Quote Originally Posted by polyglot View Post
Congratulations on that first roll...

Not sure if you're looking for advice or merely company, but if it's the former:
- you should expose your film more, probably one more stop on the first frame and about 2 or 3 more stops on the latter ones. The shadows are lacking detail.
- you're maybe over-developing a little. This is usually due to poor temperature control (you should be well within 1C); you can adjust your development time if you're sure your temperature is right and consistent. This depends on how you intend to print and the lighting conditions you're in, so don't change your time just yet, just do a few more rolls and be very careful of temperature.
- when inverting B&W scans, set the black-point no lower than the border density, i.e. the border of the negative should be completely black not dull grey. Otherwise your image itself will have no blacks.

You might also get something from the FAQ in my signature.
Always open to advice, but company is nice too. I did realize that they were under exposed. It was the first time using that particular camera and I wasn't paying attention to my settings. As far as inverting the scan, I just discovered that setting in photoshop elements. Set the black point? How's that done?

Quote Originally Posted by PhotoJim View Post
You can test fix time without risking exposing the film to light. Snip off the 35mm leader, or a narrow piece of the end of a roll of 120 film, and test it in the light.

Put a drop of fixer on the film. Wait about fifteen seconds. Drop the film into the fixer. Watch. When you can no longer see the spot where fixer got a head start, that's your clearing time. Double that for non-T-grain films, and triple it for T-grain films. If your fix time has doubled from what it was with fresh fixer and that film type, discard it and mix anew.
This sounds interesting and I will most definitely give this a try. So is this what it meant on the bottle when it said "Dilute 1:3. Fix at 65-70°for 5-10 minutes or twice the clearing time."

Quote Originally Posted by mwdake View Post
I've used Patetson reels for 40 years or so.

Here is a simple trick that may help getting the 120 started on the reel.
It gives the stiffness and guide to get the roll started in to the flanges...

Cut a piece of the film box to be the same width as 120 film and about 2 or 3 inches long.

Before you go in the darkroom or changing bag slide this piece of card along the reel tracks into the beginning of the reel but not past the little ball bearings. Now when in the darkroom or bag take your film and slide it along the card until it is past the ball bearings and pull in a bit more then remove the card and load in the normal way. You see the card acts like a guide and makes those springy films easier to get started.

I most often reverse curl the first 1/2 inch or so of my film before loading to help with the springiness.
I still have the same bit of card I cut out of a Fuji box a couple of years ago, I only replace it if it gets lost or too banged up.
I knew there was a trick to this. I know what I'm doing next time. Thanks.