What PE states is more or less factual. ALL reversal kits are not created equal - in my opinion, most are bad. The FOMA kit is for the FOMA-r film, thats it. The posted ILFORD recipes on the ILFORD site should be deleted. Consistent reversal is not as easy as some might think it to be.


Quote Originally Posted by johnielvis View Post
This statement is VERY misleading. The kits will work for any films that lend themselves to reversal processing, including tri-x. It's surprising you'd make such a statement.

This is like saying that you can't develop tri-x using tmax developer and you can't develop tmax using hc110.

Also--if you substitute a different film for a certain process, it's best to keep the process the same--that is do NOT start off fiddling with the process times for different films, it is more appropriate to adjust the EXPOSURE of the film to the process. Each film has a different EI for reversal processing than it does for negatives in general. This is because when you're developing for negatives, you are using the "first" portion of the film curve--when it first starts to take off. However, when you are reversing it, you are, in general, using a portion of the film curve further "down the line"--so you generally need a bit MORE exposure to make the reversal work. Mr. DR5 has a table on his website of film speeds for DR5--this is an EXCELLENT starting point. One of the first adjustments people seem to have trouble doing is exposing somethign that SAYS "EI 400" on the box at a "reduced" EI like 200 or 100.....they seem to think the PROCESS is messed up if you can't get the "full" film speed. However, for reversal, "full speed" is usually somewhat less then the full negative speed in general. So people will trash a perfectly sound process because it seems to be defective if it can't get "full speed" out of the film.

ALSO===you CAN SAVE those reversals that are "too dark"--use ferricyanide bleach. It's even conceivable to make an end bleach step part of the reversal process--after 2nd developer, say, you then give it a bleach bath and final fix to clear up the highlights. Then this is like "developing by inspection" but only in reverse. This has the effect of "pushing" the film "after the fact". Or, it's like the hypo in the first developer but more controllable and done by insepection instead of blind.

NOTE--the bleach ALSO works for black and white fuji instant film---got an exposure too dark?...you can save it--put it in the bleach--it WORKS!