I concur with Jim
Start off with negative film. Negative film is more forgiving of exposure errors than slide film. With negative film, you (the lab) have a 2nd chance to correct the exposure when making the print. With slide film, you only have one chance and it better be good.
I recommend that you choose and use ONE film. Bouncing between several different types and speeds of film as you are learning is a mistake waiting to happen. Change film, but forget to change the ISO setting on the camera, and you will expose the entire roll at the wrong ISO setting. Worse yet, load another roll of film and shoot it at the same incorrect ISO setting. Been there, done that.
I would select a medium speed film, ISO-100. I shoot ISO 100 B&W film, and the local college recommends ISO 100 B&W film for their photo 101 student. But going up to ISO 200 is a decent compromise for a bit faster film. IMHO don't bother with the high speed film (ISO 400 and higher) until you are comfortable with the camera and what it can and cannot do. Then the high speed stuff is like a tool in your tool box. You use the right film for the job, just like you would use the right tool for the job.
If you have access to do your own printing in a darkroom, I would start of with Black and White film negative film instead of color. Again choose a medium speed film.
Night shots are fun, but you need to work with your lab when they print it. They may try to "correct the exposure" and try to make the print look like a daylight image, when you WANT the black of the night and deep shadows.
If you shoot at night, you NEED a good tripod and a cable release, for the LONG exposures you will be doing.
And a small flashlight to find your stuff and set the camera in the dark, and a notebook and pen to write down exposure and subject info.
IMHO, don't bother with the kit. I am unimpressed by most kits, and this one is not an exception. They sell you stuff that you do not need, like the ND filter, ba hum-bug.
All you need are 2 filters, and only one immediately
#1 - a UV or Skylight filter, to protect the front of your lens. Yes there is a HUGE debate over using or not using filters. But in my experience, I found that a "protection" filter does indeed protect the front of the lens from various "stuff." And this stuff includes young kids with ketchup on their fingers. YUK. Been there, done that. Throwing away and replacing a filter is cheaper than throwing away and replacing a lens.
#2 - a polarizing filter. Just like a polarizing sunglass, it removes glare from the image making colors pop. BUT, it is not a magic filter, there are time when it makes little to no difference.
I use it, but probably less than 1% of the time when shooting color.
And since I don't and probably you won't use this filter a lot, you don't need to buy it right now, you can wait and buy it when you feel like it.
Do get a lens hood for the lens. Nikon makes specific lens hoods for the various lenses.
Go to this web page, scroll to the bottom and find your lens in the table that goes from "part I" to "part X"
Somewhere on the linked page they specify the hood that is specific to that lens. Now you can search eBay for the correct lens hood.
Get a lens cleaning kit and learn how to use it. Because your lens and the filter in front WILL get dirty.
You've heard the term RTFM. Read The F------ Manual.
If you don't have the camera manual, find it online and download it, or get one of the 3rd party books on your camera.
Many basic questions are in the manual, if you read it...like how to use the light meter.
Even how to load the film. Side comment, I used to work in a camera shop, and some tourist would come in and buy a roll of film and have us unload and reload their camera for them. They did not know how to load their own camera. RTFM.
Tip: I recommend that you develop the film from a shoot ASAP, even if you only shot half the roll. The reason is you want to see what you shot and if you need to do anything to improve the shot. Or if there is a major problem, might be able to go back and re-shoot it. If you wait till you finish the roll, it could be months after you shot the pix, and you won't have the details fresh in your head. For that reason, think about getting some short rolls. 12, 20, 24 exposure, besides the full length 36 exposure rolls. Then before the shoot, think about how much you might shoot, and load the appropriate length film into the camera.
enuf for now
gud luk and gud shooting