You need a developer that develops with really short times, it cuts down on fogging.
So thing like HC-110 with lower dilution mixtures like dilution (B) or Ilfsol 3
Both of which have super short dev times, 6 minutes or less generally. That's best for old films.
As far as exposure, assume 1 stop loss every 10 years (or so) if the film was only stored at room temp or hot temp the 10 year rule stands but if frozen it's probably a lot less. So a safe bet for Tri-x (400ASA) from 1992's would be EI 160.
Anyway hope that helped.
Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk