Quote Originally Posted by PitsLamp View Post
Hi jnanian,

thx for the tips.

all 3 tests are coated and dried in exactly the same circumstances. I put them in a self made drying cabinet that has been tested and has no light leaks. If I would use a dryer, the gelatine would melt, so that's not an option.

safe light is red like recommend by Mahn. Not even darkbrown.

I'm going to try the wetting agent in the emulsion for an more even coating and coat 2 times.

I have not tried to add the hardener to the developer yet. Will do that today. According to Mahn, you're not supposed to add it to the fixer, because of the long washing time, which would damage your emulsion. A
so I need developer early on in the process because otherwise the emulsion lifts during developing.

I tried misting the developer, but that doesn't give me an even coverage of the developer on the canvas.

I want to print on metal too, did you take any extra precautions like using a alkyd resin primer or just gelatine.
hi pitslamp:

do you have a large cold surface you put your canvas on post-coating ?
that might also help with your frilling issues. at least with glass it helps ...
and luckily you don't have to make sure your surface is level ... the cold
chills and sets the emulsion.

i would try going against what the manufacturer suggests and do a test with canvas with the hardener in the fixer instead of the developer.
and don't use stop bath. if you can find and alkali fixer with hardener that would do you well too ... liquid emulsions seem to like alkali
no matter what you will have extended washing times because of there being hardener in the mix. if you use fixer remover / perma wash you can cut your
washing time to a minimum.
make sure you use a COLD developer ...

for the metal, i get it coated with an enamel paint. the emulsion sticks right to it and there don't seem to be any problems ...


good luck with your tests !
john