Quote Originally Posted by Roger Cole View Post
I would be very suspect of anything shorter than two minutes for FB paper, and in fact as I mentioned I don't like anything shorter than 3. 5 is better but I get impatient. Of course exposure has to be adjusted accordingly, and do mind the safelight. Even with a tested safelight my prints spend the majority of that time face down.

RC papers can usually get by with 90 seconds but I tend to use 2 minutes. For one thing, longer times mean less variability from error. If you have trouble lifting the edge of the print with tongs, for example (I use tongs) and give it an extra 15 seconds messing around with that, this is 25% more on a 1 minute development time, but 1/12 or 8.33% more on a 3 minute time, which will never be noticed. The 25% often will.

I use LPD 1+2 for neutral tone papers and Ilford/Harman WT 1+9 for MGWT FB.
Thanks for the tips! It's always great to read the comments and advice, as so much can be learned from them. I'm using RC paper, and with the MGIV, my development times run about 60-90 seconds. I'm thinking baout trying the Oriental in FB Cooltone, as I prefer neutral to cool, especially for much of what I shoot. I noticed that the longer times lead to warmer prints, which is somewhat offset by developing in Eukobrom.

I like your point about time and the percentage of change, it drives home the importance of procedures and attention. That's why shooting, for instance, for 10 minutes development of film seems to improve my negatives. This means with Delta 100, 9 minutes in dilution b and with HP5+ it means 10 in Dilution h.

As I mentioned earlier, I plan to test my "safelight" when I print again to ensure it really is safe. I hope to print tonight and have better results.

Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge and experience!