Quote Originally Posted by sygyzy View Post
Hi, I realize I am a new member here so I don't want anyone getting the wrong idea. I have been busy this past weekend or else I would have done a retest! I am very appreciative of everyone chiming in with their theories. Let me try to answer as many questions as I can!

  • Yes, I will try the test again with your suggestions - same batteries in both cameras and preferably a white wall that fills up the entire frame.
  • Lenses: as far as I can tell, here are the stats of the lenses
    • 50mm f/1.8 Nikkor, Type Ai, made 1978-1982
    • 35mm f/2.0, Type K, made 1975-1977

  • I cannot see that the 35mm is damaged at all or anything looks out of place. Of course, I am not an expert on these lenses. I will say that nothing looks GLARINGLY wrong such as chips, dents, bends etc.
  • Despite both cameras being Nikon FE's (not FE2 or FM, etc), if I look into the lens coupling, they look slightly different. I am not sure why or how this is possible. I will attach a picture tonight.
  • Why would a Pre-AI lens cause a problem? I bought the FE because I read it was one of the most reliable film SLR's and it's advantage over it's newer counterparts was that it could accept ALL lenses.
  • I am very careful putting on the 35mm lens on my second FE body. I can't see any issue with me using the wrong angle or too much or too little force or cramming anything in. It's VERY stiff though when attaching and turning the aperture wheel takes two hands, one to steady the lens body and one to twist the ring. Certainly very disconcerting.

Thanks again for everyone's help. I secretly hope it's an issue with it being Pre-Ai ... can someone explain that to me?
There's your problem."[*]35mm f/2.0, Type K, made 1975-1977". This lens does not couple with the meter in your camera, it is what's called a "pre-Ai" lens. If you look in the instruction manual for your camera, it will explain how to use stop-down metering.