Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Searust View Post
I teach film developing and get people asking this once in a while. My answer is that film development times can be broken into discrete chunks of either 10 seconds or 15 seconds. If you need to time development down to the second, or can tell the difference between development of one second and the next one, then you are probably not using a daylight tank in the first place. --- While you are stressing over seconds, the rest of the class is done, has good looking film, and is moving onto the next step.
Wouldn't "stressing" about it make you proceed thorough the fluid changes faster? That too me would seem the logical solution not going slower.

I shoot TMAX 100 @ ISO 50 and develop in XTOL. The Kodak datasheet recommends 30 seconds less developing versus shooting at ISO 100. I haven't had a lot of time to experiment because I had other issues that were more pressing. I was just thinking 5 seconds is 16% of of 30. When you look at it that way that's a lot of slop. I wasn't sure whether it made a difference in the final print. I didn't really "stress" about it but it is something a logical person would think about. I have traced 90% of my issues in developing to deviating from the manufacture's recommendations. I overly complicated my efforts by being sloppy. Anyway I haven't done any experiments and if you say it is irrelevant then that is good enough for me for now.

My biggest problems with developing were uneven developing (particularly in smooth skies) and air bells. Adding an acid stop bath helped with some of the uneven development but the type of swift fluid changes and vigorous thump to reliably dislodge bubbles one needs leads me to believe you would need a machine that is a lot more robust. The overall concept seems sound, but the materials don't seem like the could stand up to the necessary level of violence. Having said that I would welcome anything that took that chore off my hands and resulted in nice negatives.