I'm piling in here way late and without having used any of this film, but having followed quite a few yellow Agfa arguments on the forums. I think (and apologies if I'm rehashing someone else's point here) that a couple of things are worth keeping in mind:
- some people get beautiful neutral results from CR200 with no yellow tint whatsoever (I have seen it in person)
- some people get a disgusting yellow cast, varying somewhat in intensity between sufferers (I've seen nasty scans, unprojectable and uncorrectable digitally)
- the yellow cast does not seem to be correctable by filtering the objective lens

There seems to me, from my unscientific observation of forum complaints, to be a correlation between people getting yellow results and using the cheaper E6 kit chemistry, i.e. powders and/or blix kits. Those getting perfect results are either running 6-step Fuji or Kodak chemistry or going to labs who do so.

The reason we see no complaints from the aerial surveillance mob is that they process huge quantities of film in high quality bulk chemistry kept in tight process control. It probably works flawlessly for them.

My hypothesis: there is an issue either with this film or (more likely) with the cheaper chemistry kits that manifests only when the two are combined. An incompatibility as it were, which probably results in incomplete bleaching or maybe over-reversal (e.g. re-activation of some sensitivity in the highlights, causing yellowed Dmin), or blix-preservative (blix not being part of the documented E6 standard process) tested only with Fuji+Kodak films reacts with the Agfa, or something else entirely. I could guess until I'm blue in the face, but the Kodak and Fuji process instructions both give guidance on possible causes of various casts.

So if you've tried this film, a) did it work cleanly and b) which brand of chemistry did you use?