Quote Originally Posted by momus View Post
I found an orange filter that I didn't even know I had, and that alone gave me 3 stops. When I used itw/ the polarized I had 5, so it was a breeze shooting wide open w/ my top shutter speed of "just" 1/1000. I tried several different combinations and kept notes (shot w/ polariaer, shot w/ polarizer and Y. or Or. filer, etc). The metering drove me a little nutty because each combination called for a different iso setting, and my in camera meter was adjusting for things, but not always correctly, as the color filters were not being totally compensated for. I finally just used my hand held meter and went w/ those readings, as it was a lot faster to change the iso on that meter than the fiddedly iso setting on the camera. When I get it developed I'll post a few photos of the different set ups. Didn't see any vignetting in the viewfinder. I love this little 135 H lens. Think mine is from 1969. Really small and light.

You have my interest Thomas. My attempts at shooting TRi-X under the rated speed by more than one stop has given me some negs w/ largish grain and/or flat tones, but working w/ that in the printing process might be fun. I could probably mitigate some of that if I used Acufine, but I prefer the tonality I get developing in D76.
You don't find out what your materials are fully capable of until you start to hit the limits of what's possible.

I don't do what I do to affect grain one way or another. I really don't give a rip about grain. It is ALL about tonality. Rich fat blacks that are heavy, and lots of tone where it matters. Most people I know get so hung up on grain and miss so much potential of the film.

Experiment with your film until you have something you like. Overexpose, underexpose, overdevelop, underdevelop, etc. Just try many different things until you find what you like.

The filters you mention can be useful, but not for every damned shot, because they seriously mess with how the film sees color.

I also don't understand why people are so hung up on shooting everything wide open. Does it really make the pictures better, or is it just another gimmick to cover up something inadequate? Depth of field is a tool to control how much is in focus, based on how close to the subject you are, what lens you use, and how much of what's in the frame is important to show. Again, experiment, and don't lock yourself into a corner where you only see a small portion of what's possible.

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