Quote Originally Posted by DanielStone View Post

Do this:

Go out and take pictures. Take notes of corresponding photographs(f-stop, shutter speed, etc..)
When you find a photograph you want to make(I'd recommend using a tripod, just to keep the camera in the same position), find your exposure, and then close down(and moving shutter speed accordingly to keep the same exposure(1/4 @ f8 is the same as 1/15 @ f4, etc....)

Shoot from F2.8(wide open) down to F22/32, whatever the lens's smallest aperture is.
Move in full-stops, don't worry about 1/2f-stop movements.

Process said film(I'd shoot all 10 shots of the same thing, remember, KEEP NOTES!)

Scan/print said film, whichever way YOU do your post-processing workflow(analog or digitally).

Make your own comparisons. What works for joe-schmo in XYZ location might not work exactly the same for YOU in ZYX location, etc...

YOUR OWN EMPIRICAL DATA is CRUCIAL to YOU getting the most out of YOUR OWN equipment and film stock(s) of choice.


I followed your suggestion and carried out some basis testing, shooting a test chart at different apertures and found the following results.
At F2.8 sharpness is disappointing. It takes F8 for optimal performance (sharpness and micro contrast) while F5.6 is very satisfactory, being almost equal to F8. At F4 the image is blurred. I will repeat the test to be certain of that specific aperture and to expose at small apertures .

I used a Slik Pro 500DX tripod at its lowest position to prevent vibration, at my P67II I used mirror lock-up. Film was FP4+, semi stand developed in Rodinal 1+100 for 1 hour.