This post from 2007 might be of interest:


I find I have the Defender Varigam Sepia toner formulas stored as a text file and include it here because it is in some ways unique. Thiocarbamide has the advantage over Sodium Sulfide of not emitting Hydrogen Sulfide gas so it does not have the familiar "rotten egg" odor.

Defender Varigam Toner

Bleach B-1
Water 500.0 ml
Potassium Ferricyanide 22.0 grams
Potassium Bromide 25.0 grams
Water to make 1.0 liter


Bleach B-2
Water 500.0 ml
Potassium Ferricyanide 22.0 grams
Postassium Iodide 10.0 grams
Water to make 1.0 liter


Bleach B-3
Water q 500.0 ml
Potassium Ferricyanide 22.0 grams
Sodium Chloride 35.0 grams
Nitric Acid 15.0 ml
Water to make 1.0 liter


After fixing and thorough washing prints are bleached in one of the above bleaches for twice the time necessary to visually convert the silver image. They should then be washed until there is no sign of the yellow stain from the Ferricyanide.
The print is then re-developed in one of the following toning baths.

Toner T-1
Water 500.0 ml
Thiocarbamide 3.0 grams
Sodium Hydroxide 6.0 grams
Water to make 1.0 liter


Toner T-2
Water 500.0 ml
Thiocarbamide 3.0 grams
Sodium Carbonate 45.0 grams
Water to make 1.0 liter


Toner T-3
Water 500.0 ml
Thiocarbamide 3.0 grams
Potassium Carbonate 48.0 grams
Water to make 1.0 grams


Bleach Toner
B-3 T-1 Deep Brown, to purplish
B-2 T-1 Deep Brown
B-1 T-3 Yellower Brown
B-1 T-3 Yellow Brown
B-3 T-3 Very Yellow Brown, "Sunlight effect"

T-2 used in place of T-3 gives slightly colder tones.

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Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA