Quote Originally Posted by luke778899 View Post
This is very true, I apologize for forcing this upon you hahaha

Dan, thanks for your advice. I do have a cast iron sink and I agree that a seperate bleach and fix is the way to o. The digibase kit has this and can be bought in smaller quantities. The Fuji kit is 5L and I'm not sure what the shelf life is like.

Thanks!

Luke
Luke,

If you break the 5L kit down into (1L) sized portions, and then use each "portion" separately, the shelf life can be extended tremendously. Get some BROWN chemical bottles from a chemist(pharmacy), most usually will have them on hand, or can order them for you. Make sure they have vapor-free caps. Fill em up, all the way to the top. If you don't want to fill them up completely, get a can of "canned air", better nitrogen, but anything else than oxygen-laden air as a "topper". Store mixed chemistry in a dark, cool environment and I think you'll be surprised how long you can extend a 5L kit

Yes, the digibase kit has BLIX, not separate bleach & fix baths:

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/660161...or-Kit-5-Liter

I've used Jobo(hand inversion, and rotary), stainless tanks/reels, Paterson(essentially the same as Jobo inversion, plastic reels/tanks), and large stainless "basket" style processing in the past. To me, the easiest and most simple are the stainless tanks/reels, and Jobo rotary processing. Right now I'm using a pro lab, but plan to eventually(when time and living quarters comply) re-start using a Jobo rotary system for my C-41 and E-6 processing, so I regain complete control of my film processing, and no longer have to pay for pushes/pulls , both of which I use regularly on both C-41 and E-6.
Basically, I'm saying that DIY color processing, now in this day & age, is SOOOOOOOO simple. It, like changing a diaper, just "takes a little getting used to" ! Chemistry is CHEAP(even if you do it single-shot, which I prefer, despite the extra cost).

Another thing (I) would recommend: MIX YOUR CHEMISTRY WITH DISTILLED WATER. This takes out potential for pH and hard/soft water issues, but since it's so cheap I figure why NOT use it and reduce your variables ? (I just use regular (in-line sediment filtered) tap water for washes on C-41).

Best of luck with your foray into color processing. Take your time, have everything measured out before-hand, and again: TAKE YOUR TIME. Have a good watch/timer, and when getting started, have everything CLEARLY labeled so you don't grab fix(speaking from experience here !)

-Dan