Interesting you mention the ph of the CD ... a great way to colour correct I would say, and who would know what I am doing.. good tip.

I think Ron M would give me the mad chemist award, I think he would cringe with all the adaptations.

I am only interested in the Fuji films.. basically a supply thing ** my lab purchases direct and the Fuji Headquarters is 30 min away.We have a fantastic relationship with them and Kodak has pretty much given up the ghost in my neck of the woods. I like to buy in bulk and our discount is great comfort. Introducing other Manufacture films right now is not in my plans , as I will exhaust my options with the Fuji Product.

I use FP4 for all my black and white, and do plan to get some ortho 25 so I can solarize in red safelight and see my effect immediately.. ie pull the neg sooner or later.. I do this with my paper prints all the time ...

I will need to figure out which Fuji film works best for the E6 application. but once I get the right one I plan to stick with it. I only use 4x5 for this application and I am pretty liberal with the amount of film I will shoot in a given three day period...


Quote Originally Posted by polyglot View Post
I'd suggest getting the Fuji 5L kit (if they stock it locally) and giving it a bash. Since you have a CPP3, not much is going to go wrong if you follow the instructions. Since your end result is going to be non-standard anyway, I suspect that any little subtleties of running traditional E6 that we could maybe tell you are not really going to be relevant.

Something you might want to play with is changing the pH of the CD step. That gives you hue shifts with E6 film, with the axis of the shift depending on which film you use. I think most Fujichromes shift along the blue/yellow axis with pH and the Kodaks do something else. Might be interesting, but it is a global hue shift rather than the subtle realignment of colours you get with cross processing.

Have you considered using Digibase film? It's C41 with a clear base, no orange mask. Might make a less-obviously-crazy positive but still with some clearly unusual colours. And there's that recently-released Lomo fake-IR stuff which has the green-sensitive dye coupled to the wrong channel; might be even more (?) interesting if cross-processed.