No darkroom no enlarger. A question off topic here, 4x5 enlargers are difficult to find here, and also they are way too big to fit in my house. 35mm I guess are available and I believe they are small to fit in a closet, right? So I was researching 35mm and Leica M3 seems to a camera that one should try at least once in a lifetime. So if the darkroom print is going to be very much improved compared to scanning that I am doing is it worth to go that way?
Within your closet at home, you can experience the fun and see the beauty of black and white printing without any equipment - by making contact prints from your 4x5 negatives.
A Leica is nice, but don't get caught up in "the grass is greener" - it's not the camera, it's what's on both sides...