Quote Originally Posted by Claire Senft
The article is posted in the "How To" section as Dignan NCF Divided Developer.
I hope you don't mind some follow-up questions. I've read your summary, as well as ordered a back issue of the original article and read it. I've done B&W processing, and have mixed my own B&W chemistry, but I've never done color processing before. Anyhow:

  • Dignan's original article mentions an acetic acid stop bath, and you recommend a stop bath of 20% vinegar. I take it this is in addition (prior) to the blix step? I ask simply because I've not seen mention of a separate acid stop bath in other descriptions of color processing. Would standard Kodak Indicator Stop Bath be suitable (I've got a bottle of it handy)? Are there any stop baths that should be avoided? Should I keep the stop bath for color work separate from that for B&W work, to avoid cross-contamination of chemistry, or can I just use one bottle and not worry about that?
  • I understand that the A bath volume will drop as it's used to develop more films, until there's not enough to do more. At that point, should the remaining A bath be discarded (on the principle that it's now getting too old and/or contaminated to be worth risking further use) or "topped off" with a fresh batch of A bath? Any estimate of how many rolls 500ml of the A bath will process?
  • On a more general note, some descriptions of color processing mention using a stabilizer as the last step. (One formula I found for stabilizer specifies a mixture of water, formaldehyde, and photo-flow.) Others don't mention this step. What's the purpose of this step, and why is it sometimes omitted?


Thanks for any clarification of these issues.