The rest of the process is regular B&W reversal, it's only incompatible with the first developer used for other films, I don't seem to be able to find the edit option for the article.
It's 5m at 27 celsius for first developer as described above, followed by a stop bath, not a rinse. It's light safe at this point, you can open the tank.
Then wash for 1 minute.
Then bleach, it's just a standard dichromate/sulphuric acid bleach, I don't even measure it out since it's so reliable (unlike permanganate), I just put a few drops of concentrated acid in with a spoon ful of dichromate, I reuse mine after filtering, though it's easier to use one shot, as the handling of dichromate is easier that way and it's cheap anyway as you need little of it.
Bleaching of this film takes longer than other B&W films for reversal because of the extra silver layer in the film, you'll know by inspection when it's done, as the silver layer will clear, revealing the negs, which will be black in colour, then the negs will clear and you'll be left with yellow looking film. Make sure to agitate the bleach every 2 minutes (or 1 minute if you prefer), less you find some spots not fully bleached on the film where you can't see.
Pour out the bleach, and rinse the out the tank/film with water. Then put in your clearing bath (I just use a spoon of sodium sulphite in water), clear for 1 minute is adequate.
Wash the film for 2 minutes.
Now you must perform the reversal step, you can use any normal reversal step, exposure to light, or chemical reversal, your choice, for light reversal, take the film off the reel, and put it back on, I suppose you could run a strong torch over the reel on both sides should be adequate to get it all, but I like to make sure it's fully exposed. Plus take it off the reel at this point will let you inspect the film entirely to see if the bleach is completely done over the whole length of the film. Of course this may be a pain with a movie length of film, I know about 2 teaspoons more or less per litre of bleach of dichromate will clear before 10 minutes at 20c with per minute agitation, so I usually go a bit more than 10 min, you can use a warmer bleach temp too, with no issue, I think I did one lot at near 30 celsius. You can't really over do this step, unlike with permanganate bleach where it'll ruin your film if you do.
Now re-develop the film, use any developer, you can reuse the used developer from first step here if you wish, rodinal, print developer, etc. Your choice.
Rinse the film off, and fix for 4-5 minutes with rapid fixer, to make sure any undevelopable halide (eg silver iodide) is removed, so the film doesn't potentially get muddy with age.
Now wash the film like you would with any other process, use a wetting agent, and hang to dry.
Permanganate Bleaches: I can't stand them, they always damage my film every single time, no matter how careful, low enough temperature, right amount measured out, with short enough time, so I would avoid this if possible and use a dichromate bleach, just treat the dichromate with respect and handle it safely, gloves, ventilation, etc.
Futhermore, Fomapan R100 takes longer to bleach than other films, which indicates that it may need either longer time, higher temp, or higher concentration bleach for permanganate, further increasing chance of damage, I know the kit uses it, but I still don't like it.
Last edited by Athiril; 06-17-2014 at 08:00 PM. Click to view previous post history.