I appreciate the responses and advice.

Neal, as you suggest, I haven't ruled out a possible film issue. I did process some 35mm transparencies and checked for a color cast. It's much harder to see, but I think the problem still exsists. I ordered some Sodium Hydroxide...

David, my exposure times are 5 seconds or less (bracketing) so I don't think reciprocity failure is coming into play in this instance. My exposures look pretty good, but I know that reciprocity errors will play havoc on color. One point you made about the PH of the water.....very interesting. That is a point that deserves further investigation.

KT, while I'm waiting for may Sodium Hydroxide to arrive, I am going to give your suggestions a try. I have been very careful to rinse between each step to avoid cross-contamination of the chemistry and haven't been using a pre-wash at all. The Photo-Therm processor use's a pre- wash/wet before the 1st developer. I'll give that a try in the Jobo. Also, your suggestion of no rinse between the Color dev and the pre bleach is worth a shot.....never tried that. Never even heard of it. Learn something new everyday. This should be fun.

PE, the blue (cyan) cast does extend into the blacks and borders. I've measured the color temp of the light source and it is 3200k and even. I am using a cross polarization technique to avoid reflections etc. I am shooting artwork (paintings) and the color has to be right on. Typically, I bracket in 1/3 steps to really nail the exposure (3 shots) and have found that using this technique saves me time and expense in the long run. the yellow CC filter is an option and I haven't ruled that out as a last ditch effort if the other changes I will make don't pan out.

I'll keep you posted on my progress, and again, thanks for the help!

Rick