Another option is to process the Vericolor in B&W chemicstry first, to find if there are any images worth saving; if there are, treatment with rehalogenating bleach (E-6, C-41, or the bleaches used in bleach-redevelop toning kits; not B&W reversal bleach or Farmer's Reducer), in daylight, will render the film developable through the correct C-22 chemistry (assuming in fact original Vericolor was C-22). This is both much faster (to initial evaluation) and much cheaper (in case of nothing worth bothering) than sending the film to Rocky Mountain Labs.

Generally, it seems to work well for C-22 and C-41 films to develop as if pushing Tri-X to EI 800 or a little higher, though I can't claim to know what if any effect this push will have on the final dye image if the film is in fact reprocessed to recover the color (since the bleached image is 100% exposed, all the image you initially develop will redevelop in the color developer -- and there's no easy way to tell if it's enough, or too much).