I think a 220 converter should work well for any stuff made for American 110V current. There may be a problem with a tacking iron if the thermostat is electronic. Our Tacking Iron has a mechanical thermostat that should not be affected. Don't use a soldering iron! One tacking iron we looked at is actually a woodburning tool with a teflon tip on it. When I tested it, the tissue and the print melted and smoked! Beware - another supplier we all know and love is selling that tacking iron!
Fine Art Photo Supply now sells dry mount tissue and mount board - both will be on the website in a few days in an expanded workroom section of products. The mount board is high quality, and less than the stuff I used to buy at Light Impressions.
Our tissue is the same as everyone else's. At 170 degrees, one minute should give you a good bond. I pre-heat 2 pieces of mount board, and sandwich the print/tissue/board between them. Bend two opposite corners outward after removing the mounted print. If the print corners stay down tight, you're okay. I place the mounted print between two pieces of plate glass while it cools.
Prints fixed in hardening fixer are much more difficult to mount than those fixed in non-hardening fixers. Alkaline pH fixer is best of course...