Stainless tanks will help with the tight temp control for the first developer. Make the water bath a deep as you can. Agitation is 1 per 15 sec.

Cost is high unless you process a lot of film. x rolls per kit is based on reusing the chemicals 2 or more times. However the once used chemicals have a short life so saving up two or three rolls is is way to go.

I found the Kodak 6 step gave the best colors. You can replace individual components for the Kodak kit. The first developer has the shortest life. Measure the volume of the individual components when you first open them and then you can mix smaller quantities if you are careful provided you decant the remaining into smaller botter to retard spoiling.

Contamiinination of chemicals will drive you nuts so be very careful with measuring beakers and storage containers. I used to use 6 two roll stainless tanks, one tank for each step, and a lift rod in total darkness. Never used the caps/lids. Agitation is lift and twist and down. Next cycle twist in the opposite direction.

The bleach is aerated using an aquarium pump.

Personally I would send it out. I only did it to overexpose/underdevelope to reduce contrast for reversal printing. Color neg printing is far better today and is my choice, but you need a lab that uses the lower contrast profesional paper. Recommend AIPROLAB.com. You can even send photoshopped negs over the internet and you get a print back. Neil is not cheap, but the work is first class. If the pic is no good, it will be your fault. You will need a pass word to send to his server and folder the file. Then follow up with an E-mail telling him it is there.

I see no need for tranny film today. Shoot color neg, scan it into the computer, and use one of the LCD projectors. No dust or flatness to contend with. Back up your files.

Best of luck.