I'm a big user of Multigrade warmtone and like it very much, but like you wish the highlight contrast was higher. The old MG III had great contrasty highlights although with a neutral tone (I like the color of Multigrade warmtone much better, but the curve shape of the old MG III much better).
When MG III went away, I did a lot of testing of papers and the only FB VC papers I could find with higher highlight contrast were made by Forte. These were the old versions of their neutral and warm VC papers. I know they changed the forumlation since I did my testing and don't know how the new papers compare. The Forte papers tone way more easily than Multigrade warmtone. I had some difficulty getting an image color I liked with Forte so I never tried the new stuff and generally struggle to get snap in the highlights on Multigrade warmtone. I'm about ready to give the new Forte stuff a try again.
Because of the way VC papers work, the highlight contrast is pretty much constant reguardless of filter used. You can get more highlight contrast relative to the overall contrast by printing from more contrasty negatives and using lower paper grades. Graded papers work differently and generally have higher highlight contrast with higher paper grades. Graded paper might be an alternative for existing negatives.
Similarily, you may be able to find a film/developer combination that has higher highlight contrast. Unlike some of the earlier postings, I don't think a pyro developer is what you want. Pyro developers generally produce a yellowish or greenish stain that is
strongest in the highlights. With VC papers, this stain means that the highlights are printed with a lower contrast than the rest of the image. This is great for fitting really long scale negatives onto the paper (for example very bright, contrasty clouds over a darker landscape), but do so at the expense of sparkle in normal negatives. Tmax developer and HC110 generally give increased highlight contrast especially with a film with straight or upswept curve shape like FP4+, Tmax 400 or Fuji Acros. 320 Tri-x in HC110 is probably the ultimate in high highlight contrast, but you probably won't like the low shadow contrast unless you really overexpose (I used to use it at 125).