Part A works just fine. Everyone talks about TF4 fix but I have never had it and my results look just like a friends that does use TF4 fixer. I shoot Arista 400 at the box speed of 400 and have plenty of shadow density. I recommend using the 100 speed times first and see how it looks and prints and add or subtract time as you think. I kinda tooled with it for a week or two and uped the times and uped the EI to the box speed. Agitation for me is full inversions for 10 seconds every minute, this is for roll film. Don't be a wussy here do about 3 inversions and rap the can on the sink when you set it down. For sheet film, I continuously move the film. Hutchings used to recommend re-soak for 2 minutes in spent developer for an added stain. I have read that he has backed off that statement somewhat. The stain adds to the overall stain and can become an problem to print thru since the stain is overall and not just confined to the image area. I have done it both ways and again your mileage may vary. The stain will continue to build in the wash water so it will change its appearance somewhat. I do recommend to PRE-soak for a couple of minutes. When I do sheet film I add a couple of drops of Edwal's LFN (their version of Photo-flo) to the pre-soak. With sheet film, it tends to stick together if you don't get is wet enough right away. This is not necessary with roll film IMO.