A densitometer is surely a good help. I use my Ilford EM-10 darkroom lightmeter with good results: I took one negative with a very long range, printed it on the full range of Ilford MG IV RC. I then measured points on the negative giving almost full black, almost white, and medium grey for all prints. I can then read key values on any negative and adjust aperture/filtration to fit. Note that my MF enlarger is an Opemus with four filter wheels: C, M, Y and N(neutral) so that I can tune the illumination to print anything at 10s base exposure.

But this is only useful when there's an absolute minimum of burning and dodging to do. Mostly I just look at the projected image to determine what grade is likly to give a good image, then use the meter to indicate how much burning to do to get the values I want...