I wanted to publicly thank Joe Lipka who PMed me an outstanding critique. Joe analyzed my pic and give me an in depth review which I will take to heart. I am going to excerpt parts of it here, since I think his comments have merit to any noobie like me:
Deniser negatives are better
Expose for shadowsand develop for highlightsYour negative needs to be denser. More robust. Thicker, bullet proof. You know what Iím talking about. How can I tell? Hereís how to tell. You need to print for maximum black through the clear edge of the film. You should not be able to discern between the black that is printed through the clear film base and the black that does not have film over it.
Use good paperOnce you get to that point, then what you will find is that your whites are not white. They will probably be grey. Then, you need to increase your exposure and development to get the highlights correct. Remember expose for shadows, develop for highlights?
Use a high quality synthetic hair brush and not a foam brush or puddle pusherGood paper than Fabriano.
Use the negative to control contrast, not the chemistryIf you wish to continue with alternative processes, get yourself the Richeson series 9010 brush. It really is a superior brush for coating. Itís also much more expensive. I was not a true believer until I actually used one. I will not go back to my puddle pusher (coating rod).
Use a sturdy contact print frameFrom the Photographerís Formulary web site, I see their kit contains two Ferric Oxalate solutions. One is used for the contrast control. This is not the best way to control contrast. My experience is that the negative has to be the primary controller of the contrast when using the second FO as a contrast agent. I have been told that if you make your solution a high contrast one, the FO as a contrast agent will cause grittiness in the highlights.
I think this is solid basic information to get noobs like me to the next level. Thanks Joe.In terms of image quality, it looks a little bit soft. That occurs when the negative is not in complete contact with the paper all during exposure. So you need to be careful about the printing frame that you use. It doesnít have to be fancy, just sturdy and very solid.