I'm printing 4x5 and 9x12 cm contact prints at this time, though I'm considering whether to get some 8x10 ortho film to make enlarged negatives for bigger prints. My printing light is about 9-10 inches above the contact printing frame. I'd have much rather had the 27 W bulb, but this one was a gift -- at some point I'll order the hotter bulb, but as things stand, my exposures for salt prints are running under 10 minutes and anything done with a rex process (ferric ammonium citrate alone during exposure) takes the same 10 minutes or so.
I'd say a VDB rex, as I've been doing it (budget method) is clearly inferior to the VDB I've seen, but I've only done 3-4 of them, using a too-stiff brush to apply the silver nitrate that develops the image; I was, at that time, just improvising, trying to make a silver-based print with what I had on hand after realizing I was missing some ingredients for what I had intended when I ordered the silver nitrate. With some experimentation relative to solution strength for the silver nitrate and better means of applying it (without disturbing the latent image in the ferric ammonium citrate), I'm confident I could equal the conventional VDB images I've seen -- and it's a lot faster to just coat the paper with ferric ammonium citrate and let dry than it is to mix VDB juice, let it age, coat, and dry.
I'm aware toning before fixing reduces bleaching -- but toning is LOT more expensive than printing, given silver nitrate is about $1/gram, or less if you can buy an ounce or more at once, while gold chloride is more than ten times that price, last I looked. My VDB rex hasn't faded, but did darken in the wash because I didn't wash before fixing (I now know how to solve that problem).